Diary 6
We quickly get used to the Bandari rythme again and, our heads clearer
after the mystical trip on Hormuz island, we decide to buy two 125cc Iranian
motorcycles to cross and get out of the country. The earliest the better since
Manue has to go 5 days later.
The situation is complicated, but
not impossible. The day after, we do a wire transfer to a friend to get money
(As we cannot use credit card in the country), and we head toward the street
where they sell second hand motorcycles. Along with our dear friend Aziz,
pretending to buy the motorcycles for him to get the Iranian price we go in the
crowd. Tourists are not so common in these places and we don’t go unnoticed! We get caught in these groups of young men on the side
of the road, around hundreds of motorbikes in all kind of conditions. Various discussions
and a test run later, we are decided to follow one guy back to his garage.
We assist in a good bargaining lesson from Aziz. And hours later, we all
come to an agreement and we become the new owners of two traditional Iranian
two wheels! On top we also get the necessary repairs for a long trip and a
luggage rack. We have an appointment the next day in the morning to check the
repairs and maybe already get them…
Now we have the product of our adventure, it is time to make
calculation. There is 1200 km to go to Teheran and the motorcycles can only go
80kms/h so we can do a max of 400kms per day so we can make it in 3 days. The
reality is sad, the next day the motorcycles are not ready and we cannot all go
crossing the deserts of the Persian kingdom!
Two days pass and we are still fighting with the Inidian exporter of our
Royal Enfields, and we decide to send them to Istanbul and get ready for
leaving. It is time for Manue to get her train ticket to go to Teheran, to fly
back to France, and for Guiller and Thomas, it is time to hit the road once the
transfer is confirmed and the motorbikes paid.
It is in Bandar Abbas that in the end of January, after 3 months spent
together we say goodbye to each other, the heart heavy to have spent so much
good time together, that we will soon be able to show in images. It is a new
adventure for each of us: Deunpunto Alotro continues, and the train starts…
The morning of our departure the sun
was shining bright. We harness for the first time the mountain of luggage on
the motorcycles and we could not help the smile of mixed emotions, excitement
and a kind of fear of what to expect from now on.
From the start, everyone try to (as
always) put fear and doubt inside us with things like: The police will make
your life difficult, the people in the north of Iran are not as nice as the
people of the south of Iran, the north of Iran is one of the coldest place on
earth (Hehe, tell this to an Eskimo!). Well has always, we let people talk…
Now, let us tell you what happened:
We leave with our brand “new” Irano-chinese motorcycle CG125
around 12pm. Our first concern was about 20km away from Bandar Abbas at the
first police roadblock. We read on a blog that a guy was left without the bike
there after only 20km made. However, our situation did not allow it: We had to
be in Yazd at about 900kms in the next 4 days to renew our visa about to
expire.
We come to the roadblock and we only
see two soldiers. We slow down and come to the line where the soldier indicates
us to not stop and continue. An explosion of pleasure takes hold of us! At last
the adventure on two wheels starts!
In Iran the roads are beautiful, in
very good conditions and with usually two lanes in each directions. The
landscape reminds us of our beloved Island of Hormuz with vegetationless
mountains of ocre and intense red color. The temperature is ideal and the wind
blows with us.
We fully enjoy the driving, with our eyes wide open all the time so we
miss none of this. We stop twice to refuel, and take these opportunities to buy
food and dinner and our indispensable pipas that accompany our endless evening
chats.
The sun begins to give way to the moon, and we have to find a good place
to set camp. It will be in a salt desert, that looked like a gigantic lake that
had beautiful golden color instead of an intense blue. We enter into wilderness
in order to pitch the tent at the foot of an island.
The temperatura is good and the soil not so hard, we had it all, all we
needed.
The sun rises early and so do we. The day before, we did 250kms and we
set the goal of 400kms for the day. We cannot delay any more of our precious
time, we only have three days to reach Yazd.
Vegtation is conspiciously absent all along the way. We drive the
longest straight road ever seen and although we enjoy it seems like it will
never end. The sun stays with us but the nights become colder the more north we
go. And the problem is to find wood to make fire and warm us up in these
desertic plains. Luckily we had the music to warm our hearts and good sleeping
bags in which to spend the night.
For the first time in Iran, we spend the days by ourselves, we did not
have ambassadors to show us their beloved land. But for the first time we taste
freedom, nothing to push us, nothing to stop us and the land becomes our pitch.
First incident with the police:
We were riding on a secondary road when a police
car bypasses us and pull over on the side of the road and hand signal us to stop.
Thomas, although the intensions were more than clear on their part, does not
see the hand sticking out of the window and reduces gear to accelerate
properly. Guiller seeing this, quickly decided that the best he could do was to
also slow down and drive pass them smiling and waving playing dumb. It
surprisingly worked, we probably left them feel stupid in their car, and we did
not come to see them later along the way.
Between Bandar Abbas and Yazd we come across
our first mountain range and it is with a great pleasure that we enjoy the
curves. There we see for the first time in a long time some snow, although the
weather is still very pleasant. Another magic touch to the Persian land.
So the days passed, one after the other, until
we reach our first destination: Yazd. Place where we had already been and where
we already had good friends. The reunion was amazing, if the Persian
hospitality is impressive, the love and friendship do not have limit. The place
we stayed at, the Hotel Marco Polo is managed by an Iranian that lived quite
some time in India. We had to stay in this city during 4 days, waiting for our
visa extension. We spend the days speaking in the restaurant with the newly
found family composed of the workers of the hotel.
So we did our first thousand kms in a blink of an eye. The feeling is incredible
and the motorcycles are behaving incredibly well. From now on we have one full
month riding in the north of Iran before crossing the Turkish border.
In the next chapter we will cross
the center and north side zigzagging and
finding ourselves again with great the people that define the great Persian culture and authentic humanity that define the Iranian people.
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